I went to Radziejowice with my husband who was taking part in the Chełmoński Run. Since a 10 km run takes a while and I was there with our children, we had to pass the time somehow while waiting for Dad. It turned out that the park-palace complex in Radziejowice is very well suited for that. We found a Greek revivalist Palace, neo-Gothic Castle, Larch Manor House, Swiss House, an old forge and a huge park with numerous ponds.


The name Radziejowice originates from the name of its first owner – the Radziejowski family, which settled there in the 15th century, building the oldest family residence. The grounds, together with all its buildings, have changed hands many times over the course of time. The families of Prażmowski, Ossoliński and Krasiński used to live here. In the 17th century the palace was visited by the baronage, priesthood and kings Zygmunt III Waza, Władysław IV and Jan III Sobieski. The ambition of the Krasińskis – especially the primate Michał, the last of the Krasinskis – was the creation of an intellectual and cultural Warsaw venue in Radziejowice. Among others, the socialites who frequented the place were: Narcyza Żchowska, Wojciech and Juliusz Kossak, Jarosław Iwaszkiewicz, Henryk Sienkiewicz and Józeł Chełmoński. In 1928 the first movie adaptation of Adam Mickiewicz's "Pan Tadeusz" was shot in Radziejowice.


The main attraction of the palace's museum is Poland's largest exhibition of Józef Chełmoński paintings and a collection of the great painter's remembrances. Even though he did not live in Radziejowice but in nearby Kulkówka, he used to be a frequent visitor here.


The current appearance of the palace does not resemble the old baroque residence of the Radziejowski family. Rebuilt at the end of the 18th century and completed at the beginning of the 19th century, it acquired a Greek revivalist character. Museum halls, galleries and visitor apartments can all be found here. The oldest part of the complex constitutes a castle rebuilt from ruins back in the 19th century, consisting of a kitchen and 2 historical apartments.

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Even though I have lived in Warsaw since the day I was born, Praga has always been for me just a working district. For walks and sightseeing I preferred not to go there. Lately, by chance, I discovered that this was a big mistake. A few days ago I went walking along the unique streets of the Szmulki District. This disreputable part of Praga turned out to be a treasure. I found there remote and recent history, relics and some elements of modern architecture.

 

The name "Szmulowizna" comes from the owner of the local grounds Szmul (Samuel) Jakubowicz Sonnenberg, alias Zbytkower – a Jewish merchant, banker and protégé of the Polish king Stanisław August Poniatowski. This rich Warsaw Jew made big money from deliveries for the Russian army. In the beginning Zbytkower's farm name was Bojnówek, but later on, together with the surrounding parts (village and tavern), he adopted the owner's name, Szmulowizna. With the passage of time, the Szmulowizna grounds developed and industrial and residential buildings were built. Jewish families made up a significant part of the population living there.

 

After World War II, the flats left by Jewish families were taken over by poor people from Warsaw's suburbs, and the Praga neighborhood, Szmulki in particular - despite industrial and transport development - gained notoriety.  Today, after many years without proper care, the old houses have started to regain their old appearance. New housing estates are being built on Szmulki. Here you may find the longest building in Warsaw. The 508-meter-long apartment building is located near Kijowska street.

 

In the years 1907-1923, following Łukasz Wolski's design and with the support of the Radziwiłł family, a church was built, which was given the honourable name of Basilica. Accordingly to its founders wishes, starting from 1931, Salesians would take care of this building and do all the priestly work. Basilica was the biggest church in pre-war Warsaw. The temple is 65 meters in length, with a width of 30 meters, and is 22 meters high. Its size makes a really huge impression. Pope Pius XI used to say that this temple was the most beautiful church in Poland. Today the inside of the renovated Basilica is used as a concert hall.

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For as long as I can remember, every school kid from Warsaw and its neighbourhood had to visit Żelazowa Wola. A similar duty was to visit the Royal Palace or National Museum. From early schooltime visits in museum halls I mainly remember races in famous felt slippers and the gloomy faces of museum staff trying to shelter museum pieces from the groups of bratty kids. In general, I do approve of the idea of showing to the youth our cultural and historical heritage, but a few years ago the way the knowledge was presented did not comply with the interests of young visitors. Fortunately, our world is changing and visiting boring museums is changing as well. Even last year my daughter's class' visit to Łazienki Palace was a very exciting event due to the engagement of a professional youth leader. From my visit to Żelazowa Wola almost 30 years ago I remember only the very sad and completely empty inside building, high-soundingly named 'the manor house'. I remember a tatty park surrounding it as well. The one and only dubious advantage of this trip was that we could get out of school. It was a very boring experience and what's more we were obliged to write a report of the visit.

 

2010 was the 200-year anniversary of Fryderyk Chopin's birthday. It was full of concerts festivals and artistic events popularizing the composer's work. Many Warsaw and neighbouring places connected with his life gained something from it. After modernization, the Fryderyk Chopin Multimedia Museum in Ostrogscy Castle was opened. In stylish interiors were gathered museum pieces documenting the composer's life and works: letters, personal remembrances, photos, paintings, jewellery, drawings and graphics. Even though there is a kid's hall in the museum, I recommend that older school classes and teenagers visit the museum.

 

In 2010 there was placed a special marking at Warsaw Chopin airport as the airport of the composer's city. On Królewski Trakt were placed 15 multimedia benches playing parts of Fryderyk Chopin's compositions, and there was also a pedestrian crossing with a clavier motif on Emili Plater street close to The Palace of Science and Culture and Złote Tarasy shopping centre.

 

I visited Żelazowa Wola with my whole family 3 years ago.

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15Jun2015

Everybody has visited the ruins on the Eagle Nest Trail in Poland at some point. They are a testimony to history and the passing of time. Not all of them are treated the way they deserve to be. Some of them are protected by people with passion, others crumble, slowly becoming a picturesque stack of stones. The castle of Bobolice met with a different fate.

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